Mt. Pulag Adventure: Journey to the clouds

It is Luzon’s highest peak at 2,922 meters above sea level. Mt. Pulag peak is a tri-boundary of three provinces:  Nueva Vizcaya, Ifugao, and Benguet. 

Mt. Pulag

Ibaloi people call the mountain as "Napuhlagan" which the name "Pulag" originate due to its bald status long ago before grass evolve around its area. 

Background
The 3rd highest mountain in the Philippines and dubbed as the "Playground of the gods". Hailed as one of the most beautiful mountain and the last frontier of mossy forest in the Philippines. The mountain is a dream hike of everyone who is associated in mountaineering. 

On February 24, 1964, a large part of the mountain was designated as a National Park with Proclamation No. 56. This act aims to preserve the environment around the mountain due to threats from increased development such as conversion to agricultural lands, timber production, hunting, and increased tourism.

The National Park is inhabited by different tribes such as the Ibalois, Kalanguya - Ikalahan, Kankana-eys, Ikarao, and Ifugaos.

There are 6 known trail to reach to the summit, they are classified by its trail specification and difficulty. These trails are managed by the Mount Pulag National Park, under the Department of Environment and Natural Resources:

• Novice hikers and most travelers tend to scale the Amba-Amba Trail because of its calmness; a gradual and plain trail. Nearing to the top is like a walk in the park along with regards of the beautiful grassland mountains and landmarks. Amba - Amba trail is the most popular among the others. 

• Akiki Trail is one of the difficult route to Mt. Pulag, known to many as the "Killer Trail" because of the assault and slopes. The name of the trail is onomatopeiac in origin, derived from the small brids whose high-pitched chirped sounds like "Aki-ki-ki...". It is unsurprising that this trail would be named after a bird call, because Mt. Pulag is a bird sanctuary, home to 143 species of birds. Rare species include the whiskered pitta (Pitta koctri) and the Luzon water-redstart (Rhyacomis bicolor).

• Ambaguio Trail will commence in Ambaguio, Nueva Vizcaya. The long and ardous trek among the other trails that requires 2-3 days to reach the summit. 

• Tawangan Trail is the most scenic trail as described by mountaineers passing through a mossy forest.
• Tinoc Trail will commence from the province of Ifugao and lastly is the Eddet Trail. 

Journey to the clouds

Day 1 - It was 1st of November when we have gone for a trip to Benguet venturing the famous Mt. Pulag  - the 3rd highest mountain in the Philippines and dubbed as the "Playground of the gods". One of the foremost adventure destinations in Northern Luzon, Philippines. 

Victory bus and Monster jeep were our source of transportation until the registration point of Pulag via Akiki trail at Kabayan passing through the mountainous area of Benguet overlooking the rivers and falls early in the morning when the light shine out in the darkness. 

Stop-by at one of the restaurants along the road to have a breakfast, filling the need of the stomach to be able to gain strength for our trip and trek. As we began to exit into the jeep, cold temperature greeted us, it was very cold at that time, so all of us had a zip of coffee to warmth ourselves. We resumed our trip afterwards, going back to our jeep and stock in a prison-like station for about an hour before reaching the registration point. 

Trekkers at the trail-head, Akiki Trail

Take note that there are two popular trail among the others which is Amba-Amba trail and akiki trail. Amba trail is also known as the celebrity trail because the hike is like a walk in the park while akiki trail is the opposite because of the unlimited assault and a steep slope until the summit.

A view of the mountains in Kabayan, Benguet seen at the registration point

Our Journey to Mt. Pulag was organized and headed by Lady Dianne Recto (Mulatto Mountain Chef) – Ultra trail runner, Outdoor Enthusiast/Trekker. She is responsible for the successful journey of the event to Pulag which is participated by 14 people (trekkers/trail runners). 

Upon reaching the Akiki trail Station, we ready ourselves and prepare our trekking equipment to balance the stimulating situation in the process of our trek. Prior to our trek, we register at the station; we hire guides and porters, and pray for our safety. In addition, we were given advised and hint by the authorized personnel at Akiki Station about the trail to be tackled on our journey. 

The organizer, the trekkers, the guide, and the porters at Akiki registration point

I feel motivated that time when we're about to start the trek, but feel depress at the same time because of my insufficient training done afore the journey. But most of the time when you are surrounded with trekkers who keep you going and always encourage you along the way, there will be no point of quitting but rather pushing yourself to your limits and be triumphant of your journey. 

At the registration point, you will see maps and guide books about the mountain, and the overview of Akiki trail. 

Map illustration of Akiki Trail at Registration Point

One thing to consider is when trekking Mt. Pulag via Akiki trail is to not belittle the trail, always be prepared for the challenges, it will not be as easy like walking in the park but rather a difficult one. Prior to your scheduled trek, you’ll have to condition yourself to be able to endure the harshness and hardship of the trail because it will be a pure assault and steep slope with no point of return but to look forward. Strength and support are much needed, but the key to successfully reach the summit of Mt. Pulag is endurance. We should always ponder to never underestimate the mountain regardless of its specification. 

Pine trees seen along the trail of Akiki

But once the summit is reached and you’re favored by the weather, be mesmerized by the view of the Milky Way at dawn and the majestic sea of clouds. Indeed, Mt. Pulag has the best scenery I've seen so far. 

Akiki trail is one of the difficult routes to Mt. Pulag, known to many as the "Killer Trail" because of its assault and steep slopes. We start the trek on the slope area of the mountain side, scaling through a series of up and down passing the small cave with a skull on it which is evident along the trail. Pine trees are everywhere covering most of the mountains as viewed from the trail. 

Clueless of what the trail would be, I started to conclude that it was just easy regardless of what they told me before that it will be a pain in the ass and not realizing that the real challenges that will defy oneself will commence after passing the Eddet River.  The towering mountain where Marlboro Country is settled at the top, covered mostly by pine forest.

Eddet River

In the course of the trek until Eddet River, It has been just the like walking on a stairs with no fine rest engaging in a fast pace. Pine trees are omnipresent during our trek, and I was overwhelmed of the landmark adding up the good weather which made the trek a more thrilling experience.

Trail before Eddet river

It was just reluctant to peek along the trail a small cave with skull underneath a big rock displayed in it.  It was a coincidence seeing those skulls because the day of our scheduled trek was the celebration of Halloween which is the 1st of November and was reminisces of horror film that I watched during my childhood days which I don’t do it today. 

A view of skull under the big rock, can be seen along the trail

Upon reaching the house near Eddet River, we wait for the other to cope with us and filled our empty bottle with water. Some would rather take pictures of the falls which depict a beautiful scene afar. Needless to say, the view of the falls in the river has an overflowing delicacy surrounded by towering mountains. 

Jan taking photos of Eddet trail at our resting area

We resumed the trek after our allotted time of rest expires, passing through the bridge near the falls. It was a great walk, you’ll see the transparency of the river if you gander below since the bridge is made up of steel, the swinging bridge enrage you inner mind and defy your balance, so better hold on tight and just continue walking until the end point. 

Subsequently, we scale the most difficult area to trek attributed with assault and steep slope trail with the presence of the big pine trees. In the course of the trek to the top, we are always bothered by the cold wind which causes the body to dry quickly. The amount of water in the body remains relatively constant that time since the rest of the group have no enough time to recover their strength to continue. 

Selfie with Christian while resting along the trail

Halfway to Marlboro Country, most of the participants are tired. I was able to see regrets and pain upon seeing their eyes, I don’t blame them because I myself was tantamount of their situation at that time. I always want to get myself compose but the pressure is very strong especially when gazing the endless trail up to the top and the only way to go about it was to keep moving. 

I did ask our guide several times during our ascend to Marlboro Country if we're already near, our guide responded "Malapit na tayo, basta malampasan lang natin yung Alnus tress". Silently talk to myself  and uttered "Okay, typical answer similar to the responses of guides of different mountains I went through". I keep asking myself afterward if our guide is telling the truth or not, there was no Alnus trees evident upon our ascend to the top and I feel that the steep slope and zigzag trail that we're scaling is infinite, sweat and setback poured into me. 

Hooray, after seeing those Alnus trees in one of the flat area, we instantly put our bags to the ground and had a rest for a bit just to wait for the others to cope with us. We had snacks and ate some guava fruits that was picked by our Guide - Kuya George. 

I commence in a slow pace and able to pick up a branch of pine trees to serve as my trekking pole that will assist me on our last scale to Marlboro country. You can’t tolerate the agonizing strike of starvation especially when you’re losing hope, it just that I never relinquish trekking the mountain realizing it just a temporary pain that needs curing by reaching the summit. Along the trail nearing the Marlboro Country, some of my companion experience cramps. Quite often that cramps do happen when trekking or trail running, conditioning plays a big role before the scheduled event including the help of liniment oil and salt.

The team at Marlboro Country

I was totally relieved when I reached the Marlboro Country, finishing last among the participants. We had our lunch and rest for less than hour before resuming the trek. Most of the hikers who go for 3 day trek to Mt. Pulag tend to camp in Marlboro Country. So when camping overnight, be cautious of the cows loitering around, they can be harmful. 

Quite normal to see cows at Marlboro Country loitering around

The trek proceeded after our lunch, entering the mossy forest that ringed by fogs, compared to the temperature we had at Marlboro Country, it was very cold as we begin to ascend nearing to the top. And we began to feel dreadful on the course of the trek along with my two companions – Jan and Christian. Jan suffers again from cramps, Christian was tired already, and I was feeling hopeless to continue at that time. But the delicacy to finish is strong, so we continue our trek hoping to cope up with the group, which we eventually did. 

Me at the mossy forest

We draw laughter about the pacing of the group and shared stories about each agony regarding the trek. We do share common problem and goals. And the positivity of the group was still alive regardless of the adversity. We began to have ease in mind when our organizer told us that we’ll reach the saddle camp for 2 hour period from the place where we currently resting. 

Ten minutes after nearing the grassland, the rain pours and wind rises, hindering us to trek up to the top. There was a vague view of our surroundings because of fog, and rain don’t even bother to stop, I am already wondering if typhoon struck the country as we began to feel the harshness of the weather. 

Finally, we step on the grassland 

The three of us were guessing for the right way as we began to gaze the trail ahead of us, our organizer didn't neglect us as she waits for us and begin to direct the right way heading to saddle camp. Some of the participants were lost for a while; they tackle the wrong trail which misdirects them to the right way to the camp, but thanks to our organizer who locate them in a nick of time. I guess the animosity of our peaceful mind began to provoke us when challenges come especially when dealing with the right trail to scale. 

Upon reaching the saddle camp, we start to look for a good area to pitch our tent near to one another. We’ve chosen the area encapsulate by the mossy grass. Continuously, rain pours that time and the nemesis of our hot body temperature began to take over. So, we stayed inside the tent in a prison-like situation – had dinner, unlimited coffee break and the unending talks. Thereafter, we say our prayers and sleep. 

Day 2

Woke up early in the morning prior to our scheduled hike time to the summit which is 3 am. Strong winds never ignored our presence that time. We were bothered by the cold temperature; we were able to firmly wrap our body with blankets and sweater to be able to adapt to the weather.

As early as 2 am, I got out of the tent intending to witness the stars which I did. Needless to say, the sky was clear and stars were omnipresent at that time. Driven by excitement, I quickly call the attention of my companions - Christian and Jan. We were all amazed by the view of the sky and the sparkling stars shining above. We ready our camera equipment and captured a great picture. It was a dream come true to see a billion stars. 

Chances of having a good weather and clearing at the base of the summit or the summit itself is quite rare. So, we expressed our gratitude to our almighty God including the key people of our trek; the team was overwhelmed by that given chance. Out of curiosity and excitement, I and some of the participants headed first to summit after given a go signal and successfully break camp.

A view of summit at the saddle camp

It was 5:30 in the morning of our second day journey when we ascend to the summit.  As we began to draw close to the summit, we were able to peek into the majestic sea of clouds, it was a captivating scenery. Tantamount when we reach the summit itself, there is a full feeling of euphoria, we were all relieved and happy at the same time.

The sea of cloud

Relative to what they always uttered - It will always rain before the rainbow and the best view come after the hardest trek. Finally, after the hardship and adversity, we successfully stepped on the summit and witnessed the sun rise, the Grassland Mountains, and the majestic sea of clouds.

Sunset and sea of clouds

We reached the summit way before the sunrise shine and momentarily give thanks to our guide/porter/organizer/fellow participants for the successful journey before dispersing to a different spot at the summit to have an individual documentation. Watching the sun rise paint a perfect scenery of Mt. Pulag especially when you witness it personally.

One way to celebrate is doing a jump shot picture

I was in awe upon seeing those captivating sceneries of Mt. Pulag, and silently uttered words like "wow" and "hell yeah". Witnessing the scenery of Mt. Pulag personally is different than watching in social media videos, it’s just amazing. The dream lives up to reality.

Me at the summit

After an hour of photo Ops and exploration, we regroup at the summit to have a group photo and afterwards we descended to the base of the summit to have our breakfast before the continuation of our trek via Amba - Amba trail.

The team at the summit

Breakfast at the base of the summit

We resumed the trek to the Ranger Station after our breakfast scaling the route of Amba - Amba trail. Along the trail upon seeing those beautiful landmarks of Mt. Pulag, I halted and took photos in any and every possible way to capture those beautiful sceneries. Some areas are like a walk in the park along Amba-Amba trail.

Along Amba-Amba trail

The taking of photos left me hanging on the trail, which cost me to trek in a fast pace, hoping to cope up with them which I eventually did.  Along the trail, signages are evident:  trails,  spring, and the camp. We regroup 4x in different areas - Waiting sheds, Camp 1, Water Spring and lastly at Ranger Station. We celebrated and tidied at the Ranger station and stay there for a while. Afterwards, we go back to Baguio and was able to do side trips.  

A vague view of  many mountains in Mt. Pulag along Amba-Amba trail

We dine at a local restaurant in Baguio City after our trek from Mt. Pulag. Due to excessive hunger, we eat in an enormous amount of food filling our empty stomach. 

Post-Climb Activity - "Kain to the max"

Subsequently, after parting ways with some of the participants, we travel around the city enjoying the cool breeze; side tripping at Mines View Park and Mansion. 

Wearing an Igorot custom at Mines View Park

Indeed, the event was a success and memorable. And I would like to express my gratitude to all participants, especially to our organizer - Lady Diane Recto (Mulatto Mountain Chef). 

Kinda sucks when you're trying to visualize the sceneries of Pulag, you tend to miss the mountain already and it triggered me to go back again which will eventually happen very soon. I will surely return venturing the different trails!

Pictures

Quotes
Here a some lines shared during and after our the trek to Mt. Pulag via Akiki Trail. Talks about desires; the  majestic views; the memories; and the prize. 

• The desire to trek any mountains will depend on the decision you make and the action you take. Treks can be customized based on your desires. Some treks are designed to see the best mountainous views, some are designed to expose life in the villages, some are design to eradicate self-negativity, some are design to be a resting area. All those customized design based on one's desire are accustomed to the fulfillment of life.
• The best view comes after the hardest trek. 
• I don't count mountains that I went through, I count the memories shared.
• It will always rain before the rainbow. 

Things to bring
- Tent
- Cookset/burner
- Flashlight
- Medical Kit
- Camera (for documentation)
- Jackets/glove/bonnet/malong/scarf
- Blanket/Sleeping bag/Mat
- Trek pole
- Rain coat
- Foods/Trail foods
- Toiletress
- Plactic bag/ Trash bag
- Iodized salt
- Liniment oil
- Headgear/shades

Contacts
Via Akiki Trail:
- Park Ranger – 09205434383
- Kuya George (Guide/Porter) – 09094654527
- Kuya Dowie (Monster Jeep) – 09077060303

Via Amba – Amba Trail
- Sir Roy (DENR) -  09291668864
- Kuya Dowie (Monster Jeep) – 09077060303

Mulatto Mountain Chef (Event Organizer)
Lady Diane - 09151911877 or 09064469646

Itinerary 
Actual Itinerary (For 2 days)
Day 0
0900am Depart Cubao, Quezon City, Manila via Victory Liner (PHP450.00)

Day 1
0300am ETA Baguio City, Benguet; prepare stuff and eat breakfast
0400am ETD Kabayan, Benguet; Breakfast
0630am ETA DENR Office (PHP1,800.00 Akiki-Ambangeg guide for one to seven persons; PHP100.00 per head in excess of seven persons)
0800am ETA Akiki Ranger Station/Visitors’ Center; register and secure guides (PHP100.00 entrance fee, PHP50.00 camping fee and PHP50.00 green fee)
0900am Start trek
1000am Eddet River Bridge
0100pm ETA at Marlboro Country; lunch
0300pm Mossy and montane forest
0400pm Grasslands
0500pm Saddle campsite

DAY 2
0530am Trek to summit
0600am ETA at the summit; explore; documentation; breakfast
08:00 Resume trek 
09:00 Camp 2
10:00 Camp 1
1100am ETA at Spring Water
12:00 Ranger Station; tidy up
0200pm ETD to Baguio
0400pm ETA at Baguio - victory Liner
0415pm Sidetrip ( Minesview Park, Wright Pad, Mansion)
0630pm Depart for Manila

For 3 days
Day 0 - Thursday
19:00 Assembly
20:00 ETD for Baguio City (Victory Liner CUBAO)

Day 1
0300am ETA Baguio City
Take Chartered Jeep to Mt. Pulag
0500am Breakfast and buy packed lunch at Pinkanjoe (c/o participants account).
Resume travel to DENR.
0600am ETA DENR. Log-in. Briefing.
0900am ETA Kabayan, Benguet. Final Preparation.
1000am Start trek to Eddet River
12:00nn ETA Campsite Eddet River. Lunch.
0100pm Resume trek to Pine forest. Major assault.
0400pm ETA Marlboro Country. Set camp.
0700pm Diner. (c/o Organizers)
0900pm Lights out.

Day 2 
0500am Wakeup call. Prepare packed lunch.
0700am Break camp.
0800am Start trek to Saddle.
1030am ETA Long and winding Mossy Forest. Last water source. Refill and re-group. Resume trek.
0100pm ETA Saddle. Late lunch, set camp.
0500pm Early diner.
Summit assault for sunset. Optional.
0900pm Lights out.

Day 3 
0400am Wakeup call.
0430am Start summit assault.
0530am Watch the Beautiful Sunrise.
0700am Start descent.
Breakfast at the Camp.
0830am Start descent to Ranger Station via Ambangeg trail
1230pm ETA Ranger Station.
Re-group. Resume trek to Jeepney station.
Snack along the way.
Log out at DENR.
0230pm Late lunch, wash up at Pinkanjoe.
0700pm ETA Baguio City.

|| End